Pasar de los síntomas de desgaste al cambio de pastillas, considerando los secretos de una conducción que alargue la duración de este importante componente, aspectos para tener en cuenta…
Grupo de frenos
Para analizar bien estos componentes, vamos a dividir el asunto en dos partes: hidráulicos y mecánicos. O, haciendo un símil, en software y hardware.
Los frenos funcionan de dos maneras: con un mando mecánico o con un comando hidráulico. El mecánico es de la edad de piedra del automóvil, aunque todavía es común para el freno auxiliar de estacionamiento -que no tiene que ser forzosamente de mano porque lo es también de pie- pero también comienza a s ser sustituido por un sistema eléctrico de señal.
Todo parte del principio de la incompresibilidad de los líquidos. Todo movimiento o presión aplicado en un extremo del sistema, se transmite a lo largo del mismo y se pueden modificar las distancias y las presiones de acuerdo con los tamaños de los pistones que comandan y los conductos de transporte.
Como los frenos necesitan una presión mucho más elevada de la que se puede ejercer con la pierna sobre el pedal, hay palancas que ayudan como el largo del pedal del freno, la relación del tamaño de los pistones que empujan el líquido y los que lo reciben y el diámetro de la tubería. Para completar esta multiplicación de fuerza, se suele colocar un amplificador de señal o ‘booster’, que se opera con el vacío del motor.
HIDRÁULICOS
El mecanismo consta de una bomba y cilindros receptores en cada una de las ruedas, así sean discos o campanas. Como en todo sistema hidráulico, entre el pistón y su respectivo cilindro hay unos sellos de caucho llamados ‘chupas’ o ligas que se gastan con el uso. Estas partes no tienen arreglo ni remiendo: SE CAMBIAN y si hay sospecha de daños más allá de los cauchos, igual se reemplazan las piezas.
Los daños adicionales suelen ser rayones o deformaciones en los cilindros que se generan cuando los cauchos están bajitos y permiten que las partes metálicas rocen. Cuando esto sucede, lo indicado es reemplazarlos pues la lija de agua o algunos bruñidores que se usan para sacar pequeñas imperfecciones nunca restituyen el metal y por consiguiente la concentricidad estará perdida para siempre.
Los síntomas son fáciles de identificar. Cuando el pedal cambia sus zonas de recorrido efectivo es porque la presión que se ejerce se está perdiendo. Claro, si es un carro con frenos de tambor o campana, el pedal siempre se alargará a medida que la distancia entre las bandas y la campana aumente y se necesita más recorrido del líquido, y por ende del pedal, para llegar al contacto.
La pérdida de presión significa fuga del líquido y esta se observa a simple vista.
Cuando es la bomba es un poco más difícil de identificar ya que puede chorrear dentro del booster y no se ve. Pero a la larga acaba saliendo por el borde de la pared de fuego. O, cuando no hay booster, sale por dentro del carro y empieza a manchar los tapetes. Si la fuga es en las ruedas, fácilmente se detecta porque
permanece la zona húmeda.
Claro que el primer indicador es el nivel del líquido en el recipiente de acopio. Pero no hay que confundir la falta de líquido por pérdidas con el cambio de posición del mismo. Sucede que, a medida que las pastillas se gastan, los pistones que las mueven van saliendo de los cilindros para compensar esa distancia que a su vez reclama más líquido y este baja en el depósito. Por eso, el indicador de desgaste de frenos suele ser un nivel en ese tarro, acoplado a una luz en el tablero.
Ese bajón del líquido, muy gradual y lento que se da solo entre las rayas de máximo y mínimo del depósito, es normal y no se debe reponer porque se pierde la indicación del desgaste de pastillas. El sistema NUNCA debe consumir líquido, solo sucede que éste cambia de sitio. Si el nivel se baja rápidamente y se sienten deficiencias de presión hay fugas de líquido y esas sí necesitan CORRECCIÓN INMEDIATA.
No empiece a andar con el problema y echando líquido todos los días porque por el sitio donde hay escape, bien pronto se va a perder el sello y se dará el accidente. Es lo que llama la gente: ‘se le voltea la chupa’.
“Los frenos son uno de los componentes más importantes a revisar en la mecánica del automóvil”
MECÁNICOS
Las partes mecánicas de los frenos son simples. Lo usual que exige servicio periódico es reemplazar las partes de fricción como las pastillas o las bandas. Su duración es muy diversa dependiendo de las calidades y los hábitos de manejo, así como las condiciones de uso del vehículo. Pero en principio debemos decir que un juego de pastillas decente, bien ajustado al trabajo y peso del vehículo debe durar por lo menos 18 mil kilómetros y que el kit trasero, bien sean pastillas o bandas, según la configuración del carro, por lo menos aguanta el doble de las pastillas delanteras, cuando no mucha mayor distancia. La razón es que el 80% de la acción de frenado lo hacen las ruedas delanteras.
LÍQUIDO PARA FRENOS
Como el sistema genera altas temperaturas, el líquido que lo opera debe soportarlas sin llegar a hervir. No se debe usar nada DIFERENTE a líquido para frenos. Nunca derivados del petróleo pues daña de inmediato los sellos de caucho.
El líquido tiene diferentes niveles de punto máximo sin ebullición y se debe optar siempre por el mejor. Ese punto se identifica por la clasificación DOT (Department of Transportation) de Estados Unidos que los homologa mundialmente. Lo menos que debe usar, y eso, en casos de emergencia, es DOT 4. Busque siempre que la lata diga 5.0 o 5.1 que son los más avanzados y adecuados. Cambie el líquido purgando completamente el sistema una vez al año y siempre que cambie las pastillas o bandas.
PASTILLAS
Use siempre las de mejor calidad y ojalá originales. En el mercado hay multitud de marcas y especificaciones, unas válidas y otras con poco control y antecedentes. El precio ya es un índice de calidad. Para las bandas aplican los mismos principios.
Mucha gente se queja de chirridos de las pastillas cuando se frena suavemente. No son deseables pero tampoco anormales. Se debe a una vibración cuando rozan con fuerza el disco y la pastilla y generan un sonido de alta frecuencia. Se corrige con unas láminas metálicas que van entre la pastilla y el cilindro que absorben el ruido. NO deje nunca que le ’emparejen’ las pastillas contra el andén.
También le hablarán de cristalizado o ‘glaciado’ de las caras de contacto de los discos y pastillas. Esto sucede cuando hay mucho calor y se vitrifican las partes perdiendo rugosidad y por consiguiente el carro no frena bien. A veces con lija se recupera la rugosidad del disco y cuando éste la tiene, él mismo organiza otra vez la pastilla.
EL BOOSTER
Esta pieza es una campana donde se acumula vacío del motor y ayuda a aumentar la fuerza del pedal sobre la bomba. No tiene mantenimiento y los daños se notan porque el pedal se pone duro o porque se afecta la marcha mínima del motor ya que chupa aire por estos conductos. Hay una válvula que evita la salida del vacío y que a veces molesta. Es una pieza muy simple y fácil de cambiar.
Muchos coches modernos disponen en su instrumentación de testigos de aviso de desgaste y del nivel de líquido de los frenos. Y se encienden cuando empieza a ser necesario revisarlos, aconsejando una próxima visita al taller…
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